Wednesday, 3 August 2011

Krizmah: Designer Bags with a conscience

Hello everyone. Today I want to take you all with me to the beautiful valley of Chitral here in Pakistan. The Chitral Valley at an elevation of 1128 meters (3,700 ft) is popular with mountaineers, hunters, hikers, naturalists and anthropologists.




One of the major attractions of Chitral are the Kalash valleys-the home of the Kafir-Kalash or "Wearers of the Black Robe", a primitive pagan tribe.
Their ancestry is enveloped in mystery and is the subject of controversy. A legend says that the people from Kailash valley are the true descendents of  Alexander  The Great. They are still living between two mountains in three small villages and  are still preaching the Gods which were preached in Alexander's time when he came here centuries ago. His army men married  and settled  here. Since that time Kailashis only married in their own tribe. They  look European, and most of them have white skin, bluish greenish eyes and curly light brown hair like Greeks ! Even Greek government recognise them as their true descendents and nowdays they are making public facilities for the betterment of these people so that they continue living in their original way of life and do not get influenced by modernization

The Kalash women wear black gowns of coarse cloth in summer and hand-spun wool dyed in black in winter. Their picturesque headgear is made of woollen black material decked out with cowrie shells, buttons and crowned with a large colored feather. In parts of Greece even today some women sport a similar headcovering. The Kalash people love music and dancing particularly on occasions of their religious festivals like Joshi Chilimjusht (14th & 15th May - spring), Phool (20th - 25th September) and Chowas (18th to 21st December).
Zainab Ulmulk ( not belonging to the above mentioned tribe), who hails from the royal family of Chitral, was approached repeatedly by the women of her village to utilize their craft creatively.
At a time where hand bags have suffered immensely from the herd mentality of fake designer bags with gauche logos to bags big enough to fit  a doberman in, two women have gone to other extreme and produced something so original, you have to be an ‘original’ yourself to be able to carry them. Zainab Ulmulk and Nadia Malik of Krizmah aren’t shy of taking this risk. Graphic design graduates from the National College of Arts, these young women decided to put their design prowess to use and started their own handbag line.

The brand is associated with Mogh Limited, an NGO that works closely with the cottage industry in Chitral. The expressed purpose of this project is to counter the apparent decline in home-weaving of “Shu”, Chitral’s traditional woollen fabric, the sale of which still provides cash to rural families subsisting in a harsh environment. With over 1,400 women working under them, the NGO also employs women from far-flung areas of Chitral and neighbouring villages.

The name of the brand has an enthralling history and is not a funky twist on the word charisma, as one would normally think, but instead is the name of a type of flower (in the khowar language) A kind of purple Iris. that grows in Chitral around Ulmulk’s ancestral fort. “As children we would weave things out of the krizmah that grew around our home in Chitral. But it also has a special significance since it used to be my grandfather’s official seal,” explains UlMulk of the choice of name for her brand which is as much a commercial enterprise as it is an effort to be socially conscious. “There is no concept of giving back to the community,” bemoans Malik who wants to dedicate a percentage of sales to be invested back in Chitral. At the moment the women are salaried employees of the brand but work according to their own schedules and household commitments on the fabric sent to them. Which is why, it takes up to six weeks to complete one bag on average. A unique pairing of leather and fabric, Krizmah carries an unconventional collection sporting motifs from traditional legends and folk lores. Chitrali artisans use the hand-woven works to celebrate the rich culture and mythology of their ancient kingdom from time immemorial, and each of the handbags tells a tale from the valley.
While one bag narrates the tale of a lost princess, another exquisite bag tells the tale of the famous opium growers in Chitral and how they met their business downfall.  The bags are all handmade and are a testament to the industrious north of Pakistan.
(source:Virtual tourist,pakistannewsblog,leaks.pk)
NOTE: ALL THE BELOW IMAGES AND TEXT EXTRACTED FROM KRIZMAH FACEBOOK PAGE)






Our inspiration for this piece?

Butterfly Chai

Many an afternoon after finishing their daily chores, women sit around sipping tea under the Chinar tree watching their young one's chasing butterflies fluttering around the wild flowers growing in their garden.
The children quietly stalk their colourful prey proudly displaying the butterflies they catch to their mothers before setting them free to fly into the cool summer breeze once again
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Our inspiration for this piece?

After Hours

The ability to see in the dark has elevated Owls, to manifestations of wisdom. Because of their close kinship with the night, owls are also associated with magic and love. Young lovers often swear by the owl to profess the love they have for each other which only the owl has been able to see.

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Our inspiration for this piece?

Hashim Bigim - (The disappointed Princess)

A folktale from the Kingdom of Chitral. Hashim Bigim, the beautiful princess of Gilgit, is promised in marriage to the crown prince of Chitral. The young woman undergoes an arduous journey to reach her Prince delighting in imagining her future husband. Will he be as handsome as in her dreams?














Our inspiration for this piece?

Vanishing Pordoom
“Por – doom” (Snow Leopard, in Khowar, a distinct language of Chitral )

The Lord of the Mountain, , the endangered Snow Leopard is now on the brink
of extinction across most of its traditional Himalayan habitat. A few of these
magnificent creatures still roam the rugged terrain of Chitral’s Hindukush
Mountains in search of their ever elusive prey, the Markhor.



 Our inspiration for this piece?

Mastuj Gold

Mastuj, a princely state within the kingdom of Chitral, boasted the finest opium of its time. Fields of poppies that once adorned the Yarkhoon valley of Mastuj, are now no more, after crops were destroyed by farmers to earn a 
meager compensation of a shovel and a pick.




























Geelas Paradise

During the summer season cherries are relished by both the human and animal residents of Chitral. Often birds of various colours are seen flitting from tree to tree to enjoy this delightful fruit. The Golden Oriole lords it over the others with its song which sounds like ‘’cherries have ripened’’…” cherries have ripened’’ in the Khowar language.








Our inspiration for this piece?

Tree of Life

A tree whose fruit was desirable to make one happy. Various trees of life are recounted in folklore, culture and fiction, often relating to immortality or fertility. Our depiction of the tree of life bears fruits such as pears, apples, peaches and cherries which are grown abundantly in Chitral. The fruit produced by the tree nourishes an ever advancing civilization.
 Our inspiration for this piece?

Joshi
The traditional annual spring festival of the Kalash people in mid May. It is held to welcome the coming of spring after the severe Chitrali winter. The autumn wine harvest is brought out in generous quantities to celebrate the onset of spring. Through mystical dances and hymns the Kalash turn out in large numbers, in colorful dresses, to pray for an abundance of honey, grapes and walnuts in their valley.




















Sitari's dream

Singing, music and dancing is a major part of Chitrali culture. Being a romantic, but yet an extremely conservative society, only the men folk sing and dance, as their women sneak peeks at them from a distance. As they gather under the starry sky, the notes of the sitar carry them away into a carefree dream, as another challenging day draws to an end. The authentic 5 string ‘chitrali sitar’ is a handcrafted instrument, painstakingly carved out of mulberry wood and is a part of all chitrali homes.







Our inspiration for this piece?







Kalash Kopas

Bumburet, Rumbur and Birir, three valleys in Chitral, are home to
the Kalash tribe. The Kalash, people (one of the few surviving pagan tribes) now limited to a mere 3000, have been acknowledged by the Greeks as descendants of Alexander the Greats lost army. The “Kopas” is a traditional head- dress worn
by all Kalash women. Adorned with shells and buttons, always decorated on a black background matching their black kaftan like attire, “Peeran”. One side of the bag depicts the Kopas and the other the Peeran.



























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Through the Grapevine

A common sight along the narrow mountain streams of Chitral, grapevines adorn the holly, oak and mulberry trees that grow alongside. Wine making and wine drinking is central to the Kalash culture and religion. To catch the sun in the narrow Kalash valleys the vine has to be allowed to grow up to tree tops which ends up as a struggle between the bees and birds above and the people below, to get to the fruit.


Shindoor valley in Chitral is famous for the polo festival held in the world's highest polo ground.



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Our inspiration for this piece?

Shandur

Every summer a fierce battle is played out on the Shandur plateau
where the Hindukush, Pamir and Karakoram ranges meet.
Shandur was the traditional border between the two princely states of Chitral and Gilgit. In days gone by, when they would accuse each other of abducting livestock and womenfolk, Shandur would be the venue where the two local chieftains would meet to iron out differences in heated debates.
Today, each July, in front of thousands of spectators, the two ancient rivals play their hearts out in a furious game of traditional mountain Polo in the same spirit and with the same ferocity as their medieval forbears.


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Our inspiration for this piece?

Sikander

Captain of the Chitral polo team for the last three decades, and grandson of HH Sir Shuja Ulmulk ‘Mehter’ (ruler) of Chitral whose reign lasted 45 years. Each year when Sikander Ulmulk threatens to retire from polo the people beg him for one more year fearing that without him the team will lose the dominance it has enjoyed over arch rival Gilgit in recent years. “Polo renews the bond…” The motif depicted on the bag is commonly found on most Chitrali Chogha's (traditional robe) worn by royalty and common folks alike. Here polo is not the ‘’game of kings’’. The local barber and shoemaker on horseback not only brushes shoulders with his prince but also throws him off his horse or cunningly hooks his mallet from the least expected angle.


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L to R: Zainab ulMulk and Nadia Malik










                        




























Krizmah Website

Krizmah Facebook Page


Sunday, 31 July 2011

The Journey Of Discovery









I have always been intrigued by Marco Polo's (1254-1324) travels. Even before I learned to read, I used to sit by the window and look at the pictures from an old book my father had, called "The Travels of Marco Polo".I used to dream of sailing off to faraway lands  for hours on the end. Marco Polo played a very important part in the prosperous East-West contact and some journeys took years yes, YEARS to complete.











He documented these journeys in the most famous travelogue of the middle ages. I loved looking at his sketches of mysterious lands and people. I particularly remember being fascinated by an island inhibited by dog-headed people. Imagine the excitement and allure of undiscovered lands, and coming back with strange flora, fauna and spices that nobody had heard of, or tasted before. So you can understand my excitement when  I read  that Omnia by Bvlgari was inspired by the spices that Marco polo found on his various famous voyages.


The bad news was that the particular perfume had already been discontinued, but I got lucky and found a small bottle in an even smaller shop.
My precious little bottle
When I sniffed it for the first time I was transported into the past. Old Spice bazaars of the East I swear I could even hear the sellers calling out their wares.You know how I get carried away.
Google image

This perfume is a soft oriental. The color of the bottle matches the scent perfectly. Amber brown reminiscent of the spices in it. Even though with swirls of  spices, it's still light and translucent maybe because of the lotus note and has an airy, creamy quality to it. Like a cup of  delicate black tea served with a splash of creamy milk and cardamom. Very well blended. None of the notes stand out alone. I can smell white chocolate,a hint of coffee,chai, spices, nuts and  the dusty scent of jute sacks that holds the spices. The silage is quite weak making it a skin scent but I don't really mind. It stays on my skin for 5 hours or so. It's unique and delicious for the colder months. I paid Rs.2000 for my small 40ml bottle.

  • CATEGORY: ORIENTAL
Top Notes: Ginger, Saffron, Mandarin Orange, Cardamom
Middle Notes: Nutmeg, Cinnamon, cloves, Almond, Masala chai, Lotus
Base Notes: Tonka Bean, Woodsy Notes, White chocolate, Sandalwood.


FLANKERS:

Omnia Amethyste

Omnia Crystalline
Omnia Coral

Omnia Green Jade


Wednesday, 27 July 2011

The Good, The Bad And The Ugly

So I read somewhere that lady gaga is coming up with a perfume soon and she wants it to smell like blood and semen. (yawn) Don't be shocked. It has been done before. Yes ladies all is not fragrant and lovely in the world of perfumes.
Why you may ask do perfumers and designers come up with these gross compositions that would turn people off.? Well sometimes it's for the shock value alone, and sometimes just for the controversy and history these scents would create.
 Today we will look at some of these in  The Good, The Bad, and The Ugly (twilight zone theme)


WARNING: If you get queasy or easily offended, or have just had a big meal stop reading right NOW... I will start off easy.


The first good controversial perfume I know about is Shalimar by Guerlain
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This was the bad girl perfume of the 20's. It was said that a lady didn't do three things: smoke, dance the tango and wear Shalimar ..



In the 30's came Tabu by Dana
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The forbidden fragrance Tabu was created in 1934, when Perfumer Jean Charles was asked to create a perfume  that a whore would wear. This perfume  created controversy due to it's carnal nature.I can imagine ladies reaching for their smelling salts at this news and fainting in fits of horror. Oh! The utter Shock! The sheer scandal  of it all! Tabu was inspired by the painting"The Kreutzer Sonata" by Rene Prinet with the slogan "The longest kiss in history''.
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As the years progressed the shock factor also increased. Now people don't really mind or get offended by intoxicating, heavy orientals, or smoking, or tango come to think of it. Hence comes the shock factor of introducing  animalistic notes.



Serge Lutens Musc kublai khan 
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Musc Kublai Khan was launched in 1998 and is supposed  to  smell like a Mongolian warrior. Perfume lovers all over the world have a love-hate relationship with it. Many find it too strong, with a smell of manure, public toilet, dirty body and sweaty horses. And for some, It is raw, sexual and animalic.





Sécrétions Magnifiques by etat libre d'orange

While I haven't had the displeasure of smelling this, Sécrétions Magnifiques by etat libre d'orange is supposed to smell like blood, sweat, sperm, saliva. It's enough to gross anyone out. Blood??! Is it a perfume that a serial killer would wear? If you are still curious to how it smells, below is a review by  http://baptismbyfragrance.blogspot.com .
 Secretions, Magnifiques. I guess the name itself says it all. Unless you find bodily secretions pleasurable to smell outside the bedroom, bathroom or emergency room, you might want to skip this fragrance experience.

First of all, what strikes me is the whimsical little penis exploding like a little fountain. Reminds me of those old Disney cartoons where Donald is bathing blissfully, or when the Big Bad Wolf realises he's in some serious hot water. Surely something this cute cant be all that bad, right?

On first application, I couldn't help myself, I blotted it on my wrist and sniffed it straight away before it even had a chance to dry. Nice, a bit of soft musk. Replacing the stopper on the tester, I then went in for a second sniff......and dear god, how I regretted doing that. Immediately, a brick formed in my throat, and my stomach contents were swirling.
If you have ever gutted a fresh fish and rubbed your nose in the innards, thats pretty much what this smells like. Raw, metallic, cold, salty, fleshy and bloody, with the tiniest undercurrent of floral accents straining to take the edge off this being completely and utterly repugnant. If you want to read the full review HERE is the link.







Black Orchid by Tom Ford. I have a mixed feeling about this one. I picked up a sample in a dutyfree and tested it on the plane. Its a mish mash of too many notes all trying to make themselves appear at once. And sometimes it's spicy with hints of very bitter dark chocolate. I'm still undecided.Where is the bad part in this?  Well, *hides face* Tom Ford told the perfumers that it should smell like a man's crotch. Now we  know Tom must know( cough cough) just how that smells.






 Has anyone puked yet? I warned you.
I saved the best worst for last. Are you ready for it? It's called... VULVA... lol I'm not kidding take a look;
check out the logo on the box Ewww! (google image)
Is this not the perviest pic?! I guess it's marketed to creeps who like stealing ladies undies (shudder).

VULVA PERFUME: A company called vivaeros Special Products has developed ascent they call Vulva. That's right, it's a "perfume" that smells like a woman,s privates, but is made for a man. The advertisement video  shows a sweaty personal trainer eyeing a woman's crotch as it hovers above the black curve of a stationery bike. After the woman leaves, the long-haired dude goes and inhales her womanly scent.It's pretty bizarre. But we wonder if all those panty fetishists out there are gonna be real happy (and a lot of young woman who make extra dough selling to these men will be out of a job)
(vulva article courtsey of basenots).

I hope I didn't gross you out too much. Just wanted to share some kinky stuff in the perfume industry. I have to go throw up now :)

Sunday, 24 July 2011

Lovely Sarah Jessica Parker Perfume Review

Hello ladyyyyz. Hope everyone's enjoying a wonderful lazy Sunday. It has been drizzling here from time to time but this year we haven't experienced a proper monsoon in Islamabad as yet. Thats when it rains non-stop for days and the weather cools down significantly . It was extremely humid and hot a few days back and one could hardly breathe. The lake/dam outside my window has become more like an ugly swampland and cows graze there now lol. Last year the entire 9km lake filled up in one night due to flooding and the spill ways had to be opened. It was pretty scary.


Cows grazing
Sorry about the ramble. But I'm one of those people who lets the weather get the best of them. I will be reviewing a different sort of celebrity perfume today different in a sense that it`s not your average sweet sickly fume that celebrities usually churn out.It`s called lovely by sex and the city acclaimed actress Sarah Jessica Parker. I like the fact that Sarah claims to be involved in every step for making of this scent. From Inspiration, to notes, to packaging. Mostly celebrities just sign contracts with perfume houses to associate their names with fragrances as a self-promotion campaign for huge sums of money.
Lovely is the first fragrance by Sarah Jessica Parker (in partnership with Coty Inc.). Obsessed with style and fashion, Sarah always wanted to create a signature scent that would be very sexy and yet undeniably classy. She did not want her fragrance to be overpowering, but instantly recognizable, like infamous aromatic concoction she made for herself from 3 separate fragrances before she co-createdLovely.
Lovely is a soft, powdery, discrete and very intimate fragrance, announced as 'silky white amber'. It possesses an elegance characteristic of classic fragrances. And yet the fragrance is quite modern and very charming.
It opens with soft citruses (nectarine and bergamot) and woody (rosewood) notes, with a touch of lavender, which is very discrete and not at all sharp. The fragrance develops further with notes of apple martini, white daffodil and orchid. The base unites white amber, cedar, woody notes and white musk.
According to Sarah's words, the perfume is appropriate for all generations: 'from 17 to 107'. The fragrance was created by Laurent Le Guernec and Clement Gavarry in 2005 with Sarah herself being the creative director, actively participating in the process from its start to finish. (source fragrantica.com)
My small 1.7 FL OZ bottle
MY REVIEW: I absolutely adore "Lovely" by Sarah Jessica Parker. I immediately did a double take/sniff after smelling this for the first time. Ahhh! the swaying lavender fields of Provence.

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It`s a soft spicy lavender woody musk. I don`t experience all the notes on my skin. The prominent note is no doubt lavender. It`s perfect for warmer months when  fragrances that are too sweet gets cloying very quickly. It feels clean and fresh but not citrussy.It`s hard to tell from the bottle,but I find it`s a tad masculine too. If you look at the notes you will find most of them are used in men`s perfumes except for maybe the orchid. It can be unisex even though I cant imagine a guy buying something called lovely which is pink and comes in a bottle with a lavender ribbon around it :) The bottle is beautiful. Elegant and vintage in style. Interestingly, the drydown of lovely is exactly like  Narcisso Rodriguez For Her ( the pink bottle). So, if u like `for her' but find it too expensive this is very very similar. I`m surprised how perfumes tend to change the way they smell with the seasons. I find lovely does not work at all for the winters. It turns sharp and plastikcy  if there is such a word . Overall a great debut from SJP and can be enjoyed by all ages. It comes in a 50 ml bottle for $48, or 100 ml for $62.

Perfume Category: Floral Woody Musk.

TOP NOTES: Lavender, Bergamot, Mandarin

MIDDLE NOTES: Apple Martini, Rosewood, Paperwhites, Orchid

BASE NOTES: Patchouli, Musk, Cedar, Amber and Woods.

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 Off Topic: A collaborative effort titled, Outside My Window, is doing the rounds in quite a few blogs which I found interesting. Collection of pictures from all over the world of what people look at each day outside their window.

Glimpses from apartments in Paris, flats in Hong Kong, and backyards in North Carolina are shared with people in far away lands and aim to provide a peek of an everyday view. It doesn't have to be picturesqe or scenic that`s what makes it interesting. It can be anything even a plain brick wall is cute and funny. So I`m tagging all my followers (of course only if you are comfortable with the idea) to do a picture post titled Outside my window or whatever you want to name it.
Thanks to everyone who took the time out to view my post. Have a great Sunday.







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